Pinch pot technique: how to make your first pinch pot

The pinch pot technique, also called pinching or simply pinch pot, is one of the oldest ways to form vessels from clay. It is easy to learn and yet never exhausted. Experienced ceramicists use it for delicate bowls and tea bowls, beginners for their very first piece.

In this guide you will learn what you need, how to proceed step by step, which mistakes almost everyone makes at the start and what comes after forming.

Contents

• What is the pinch pot technique?
• What you need
• Step by step: your first pinch pot
• Common mistakes and how to fix them
• Ideas for first projects
• Drying, firing, glazing
• Pinch, coil or slab?
• FAQ

What is the pinch pot technique?

The pinch pot technique is a hand building method. You start with a ball of clay, press a hollow into it with your thumb and then shape the wall by pinching evenly between thumb and fingers. As you go, you keep turning the piece in your hand bit by bit. Gradually a bowl, a cup or a small vessel takes shape.

Because you hold the clay in your hand the whole time, you can feel exactly how thick the wall is and how moist the clay still is. That is what makes the technique so instructive: you get to know the material before you move on to the wheel or larger builds.

Short introduction to the pinch pot technique by the ceramics workshop of Zurich University of the Arts (2 minutes, in German)

Well suited for: small bowls, cups, tealight holders, trinket dishes, tea bowls and hollow forms made from two halves.
Less suited for: large or very even vessels and plates. Coil building, slab building or the pottery wheel work better for these.

What you need

The pinch pot technique needs very little. You probably already have most of it.

• Clay. A clay with fine grog works well because it cracks less easily while building, for example the Witgert stoneware clay no. 11 with fine grog. A smooth clay like the Witgert throwing clay no. 11 also works and gives finer surfaces. What matters is that the clay suits your kiln or firing service.
• Without a kiln: Air dry clay hardens in the air. It is fine for decoration but not for tableware.
• A sponge for smoothing, such as a soft natural sponge.
• A modeling tool and a needle tool for the rim and details. Both are included in the Lindemann modeling set, for example.
• A surface the clay does not stick to, such as a wooden board or a cotton cloth.
• A plastic bag or plastic wrap to keep clay and unfinished pieces moist.

A pinch pot from the first press to the finished shape, clearly demonstrated by Frau KriSa (in German)

Step by step: your first pinch pot

For a small bowl, a ball of clay about the size of a tennis ball is enough. Take your time; 20 to 30 minutes is completely normal the first time.

Common mistakes and how to fix them

• Cracks at the rim. The clay dries faster in your warm hands than you think. Moisten your fingers slightly and smooth small cracks right away. If you take a break, wrap the piece loosely in plastic.
• Too much water. If the clay gets slimy, it loses its strength and the wall slumps. Damp fingers are better than wet clay.
• Base too thin. This often happens with the first press. Better to leave too much base; you can always make it thinner later.
• Uneven wall. Thick and thin spots dry at different speeds and crack more easily. Check the wall regularly between thumb and finger and rework the thick spots.
• The bowl keeps getting wider. Push outward too much and you end up with a plate. Hold the wall with both hands from time to time and gently push it back together.

Ideas for first projects

• Small dishes for jewelry, salt or spices. The ideal first piece.
• Tealight holders. You can pierce patterns into the wall with a needle tool or a hole cutter.
• Small cups for espresso or sake. Here you practice a steeper wall.
• Hollow forms from two halves. Form two bowls of the same size, score the rims, apply slip and press them together. This is how you make small vases, rattles or figures. Important: poke a small air hole into it so air and moisture can escape during firing. Otherwise the piece may burst.

Detailed tutorial by Umi Ceramics: forming a bowl with the pinch pot technique, from lump of clay to finished piece

Drying, firing, glazing

Drying. Let your bowl dry slowly, ideally loosely covered with plastic for the first one to two days. Drying too fast leads to cracks, especially at the rim. Depending on size, wall thickness and room climate, it takes a few days to about a week until the clay is completely dry. It then no longer feels cool and has become lighter in color.

Bisque firing. In the first firing, usually at around 900 to 1,000 °C (1,650 to 1,830 °F), the clay becomes solid ceramic that is easy to glaze.

Glaze firing. Then you glaze the bowl and fire it a second time. The temperature depends on clay and glaze; for stoneware it is usually around 1,200 to 1,280 °C (2,190 to 2,340 °F). Make sure clay and glaze are compatible.

Without your own kiln you can often have your pieces fired by the firing service of a studio near you. Many pottery studios offer this. Or you work with air dry clay, which is not waterproof and not food safe, however. If you want to fire yourself in the long run, it is often worth looking at used kilns. We explain what to look out for in our guide Buying a used kiln.

Pinch, coil or slab?

The pinch pot technique is one of three classic hand building techniques. Each has its strengths:

Many people combine the techniques: a pinch pot as the base, a few coils on top, and the small bowl turns into a large vessel.

Frequently asked questions about the pinch pot technique

How thick should the wall of a pinch pot be?

For beginners, about five to seven millimeters (roughly a quarter inch) is a good guideline. More important than the exact thickness is that the wall is about equally thick everywhere. With some practice the walls get thinner and the pieces lighter.

Which clay is suitable for the pinch pot technique?

Almost any pottery clay works. A clay with fine grog is more forgiving and cracks less easily while forming. What matters is that the clay suits the firing temperature of your kiln or firing service.

Can I make pottery without a kiln?

Yes. Either you have your pieces fired by a firing service, or you use air dry clay. However, it is only suitable for decoration, not for tableware or vessels for water.

How long does a pinch pot need to dry?

Usually a few days to about a week, depending on size, wall thickness and room climate. Better too slow than too fast, otherwise cracks are likely.

Is the pinch pot technique suitable for children?

Yes, very much so. It needs hardly any tools, trains the feel for the material and quickly results in a piece of their own. For children without access to a kiln, air dry clay is an easy solution.

What is the difference between pinching and the pinch pot technique?

None. Pinching, pinch pot technique and pinch pot all describe the same technique.

Conclusion: the easiest way to start pottery

All you need for the pinch pot technique is a ball of clay and your hands. That is exactly why it is worth it: you learn how clay feels, how it dries and where its limits are. This feel will help you later with every other technique, including on the pottery wheel.

If you would rather learn the technique with guidance, you will find ceramic studios offering beginner classes on our class page. Our series continues with coil building.

Enjoy shaping, from the Formwerk Berlin team